Wednesday 30 January 2013

Exercise 7: Your Tolerance For Noise

For this exercise I fixed my camera on a tripod in front of my bookcase and took a series of photographs increasing the ISO setting with each shot. The subject I chose featured both light, dark, detailed and plain areas. I then examined each image at 100% to note the difference that the increased ISO setting had on each image.


ISO 200 - no noticeable noise


ISO 400 - no noticeable noise


ISO 800 - small amount of noise in shadow and coloured areas, particularly purple of Parr book and black areas.


ISO 1600 - noise starting to take on an artificial look, definition of writing on the books seems less sharp.


ISO 3200 - noise now obvious across whole of the image and now noticeable in lighter areas.


ISO 6400 - noise has a more speckled appearance and looks less natural.


ISO 12800 - noise very prominent and visible evident without viewing at closer magnification.


ISO 25600 - image appears very degraded throughout and decrease in saturation is evident.

Generally I would say my camera handles increased ISO well - I would have no issues using settings up to 1600 and 3200 does not represent significant degradation of image quality either. Often the ISO speed chosen is entirely dependent on circumstances when an image is taken - given bright enough conditions I would always choose the lowest setting possible as this gives the best quality and most versatile output for the final image. Recently I have began to shoot in automatic ISO mode in situations where the light is changing rapidly and a fast shutter speed is required - experience has taught me that increased noise in an image is a necessary compromise to achieving image sharpness.

Tuesday 15 January 2013

Exercise 6: Highlight Clipping

For this exercise I chose to photograph my bathroom window during the day - the textured window pain distorted the outside detail making the image abstract while a large range of tones from dark to highlight were represented.


I fixed the camera on a tripod changing the exposure compensation +/- 4 EV (in the second row of images I have taken screenshots from Lightroom with the highlight and shadow clipping warnings selected - highlight shown in red, shadow in blue):





The default exposure setting the camera has chosen has generally exposed well for this scene with only slight overexposure in the extreme highlight area at the top left of the frame. At -1EV this is almost gone and at -2EV the highlight area is exposed correctly although there is a small amount of shadow clipping in the bottom left of the frame. As the exposure is decreased the blue/orange/yellow tones become more saturated in the picture, conversely the higher the exposure setting the more muted and washed out the tones appear. Examining each image at close magnified detail I found that the texture of the window is lost until -2EV, although this is not very noticeable at -1EV.

In the +EV range saturation decreases along with increased exposure compensation. The screenshots showing highlight clipping show clearly where detail is lost on the textured window.

For the next part of this exercise I experimented with the raw files adjusting the highlight and white sliders in Lightroom. At 0EV I found that most detail could be shown in the highlight areas but could not be completely returned. At -1EV full detail could be achieved although the resulting image was appeared much 'flatter' than the -2EV shot, the histograms were significantly different as well with the altered -1EV shot being compressed towards the left while the -2 EV shot contained a full range of tones from highlights to shadows. Using the exposure slider instead resulted in much more similar looking images without any obvious negative factors such as noise. There was a slight difference in colour saturation however with the -2EV picture appearing more natural. The 'best' result I achieved was decreasing the exposure in the -1EV image by one stop and then decreasing the highlight slider by -48.

Deciding which image has the 'correct' exposure is difficult - to my eye each of the shots has a different quality which appeals to my eye. In theory the -2EV image is the most correctly exposed as it has a full range of tones with neither shadow or highlights being clipped. This makes the picture very dark however with the histogram heavily weighted toward the left. The shot does have an appealing low key feel however and the colour saturation is pleasant. Although a small amount of detail is lost in the -1EV image this is my favourite as it has the best balance between highlight and shadow while having a good amount of contrast - for this image the loss of detail in the window texture does not really matter.

In manipulating the raw files of these images I could not really see any negative elements being introduced into the image such as noise. Despite this being a high contrast scene my camera has exposed the scene well, maintaining detail in both the highlights and shadows which leads me to think I should trust the cameras metering system because I will have a great deal of freedom to alter images in post production. This view does not take into account photographic intent however, and relies on the photographer making decisions about an images' use when at the computer. This concept is problematic for me - on the one hand received wisdom suggests notions like 'the decisive moment' and the idea that 'true' photographers only ever press the shutter when the picture is perfectly framed and exposed in the camera. While this is unrealistic, the opposite end of the spectrum is the photographer that snaps away at everything and then tries to make something of value out of this using software. This exercise has made me think a little more about where I sit on this spectrum. The truth is I fluctuate day to day. Currently I am trying not to get too hung up on overthinking and trying to follow my instincts more, pressing the shutter when I previously may not have.

A new year wake up call….


I am not someone that really does new years resolutions, but a couple of weeks into 2013 I find myself in reflective mood about my photographic studies. A catalyst for this was an email from the OCA concerned that I had not yet submitted my first assignment - I am approaching a year studying DPP and this was something I promised I would not repeat after TAOP which took me 3 years to finish mainly because of self doubt and procrastination. I have given myself similar wake up calls in the past which clearly have not had the desired effect of me progressing quicker so I needed a different approach. Before I could do this however I realised I needed to be completely honest with myself about where I am and what I need to do going forward.

Firstly I took stock of where I am - in truth I have been working on assignment one since the beginning of the course and have quite a bit of material already. Maybe I should just use what I have now and get the assignment finished? After all the assignment is not even part of the assessment.

Secondly I looked at my blog - 8 posts in nearly a year is not a great record. I did not keep an online blog for TAOP and one of the things I struggled with in that course was working through the exercises successfully (I jumped around the course work quite a lot and in truth did not even attempt a number of projects.) Also, I struggled to show the extra reading (and thinking) I do about photography. Having an online blog was meant to remedy this as I thought the publishing aspect would push me to complete more - I would not want to be embarrassed with showing my tutor I had achieved very little. Objectively though this idea was now proving a hindrance as I am in that very position. In truth I have lots of material collected on my computer partially written up, over the last few months I have been telling myself that as soon as I get on top of this I can start progressing. Truthfully these 'extras' are nice to do but not the core of the course - I need to focus myself on working through the exercises and assignments as a first priority and add these other items as and when time allows.

Finally there is the thorny issue of time management. I have a busy life with a demanding job and family life, however, the truth is  I do not make the best use of the time I do have available. Being busy is merely the excuse I use - after analysing the time I do have available I found that I have at least an hour each evening, probably more, which I could be using for reading, writing up exercises and research or even (shock horror!) taking pictures! Along with that I have 6 hours free on my day off while my children are at school - I just need to find a way that any errands I need to complete are out of the way so I can make best use of this time as this is the absolute key to me being able to make real progress. Combined with this I do not have a plan for timescales to complete exercises and assignments. I have spent some time mapping this out on a calendar - the targets are quite broad but I think achievable. Each week I will spend 5 minutes understanding whether I am on target or not. If manage to achieve these goals then I will be sending DPP for assessment in November.

I know from the last 6 months of TAOP during which time I completed most of the work that I have the drive to be able to complete the course within the parameters I have given myself. The key to success for me is gaining momentum - once I begin with my plan I am sure the work will begin to flow.

Monday 14 January 2013

Exercise 5: Sensor Linear capture


I must admit to feeling an element of 'interesting, but so what?' When I read through the notes for this exercise. Sensor linear capture refers to the way a digital camera's sensor records an image - basically in camera processing adjusts the tone curve of the image, if it did not do this the image would appear too dark. The exercise requires manipulation of an image's tone curve to simulate this and then the application of the opposite effect on the manipulated image before comparing the results.

Before beginning I decided to do some research in the hope that this might shed some light on why this exercise is important. Martin Evening in "The Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3 Book" (2010 Adobe Press) provides a good explanation. He asserts that all digital images contain data that is a linear representation of light hitting the sensor:

 "As the light intensity doubles, a sensor records a brightness level that is two times higher...human vision perceives things quite differently from the way a sensor sees and records light...our eyes compensate for increasing levels of brightness in a non linear fashion...Our human vision system is able to adapt to widely changing light levels by constantly compensating for such extremes."1

The way a sensor records light and represents image data looks very dark - even though it may be perfectly exposed. Therefore, in order for a digital capture to look right to our eyes the linear data must at some point be gamma corrected, that is effectively lightened at the mid point.

For further reading on linear capture Evening provides a link to an essay by Bruce Fraser on the Adobe.com website:"Raw capture, linear gamma and exposure."

The first paragraph provides an indication of why linear capture is important, Fraser states that by ignoring the way a digital camera captures an image you run the danger of "failing to exploit the camera's dynamic range, and creating exposures whose shadows are noisier than they need to be." He goes on to explain how levels are distributed in an image using the example of a 12 bit image with 4096 levels and 6 stops of dynamic range:

"If a camera captures six stops of dynamic range, half of the 4,096 levels are devoted to the brightest stop, half of the remainder (1,024 levels) are devoted to the next stop, half of the remainder (512 levels) are devoted to the next stop, and so on. The darkest stop, the extreme shadows, is represented by only 64 levels."

When the cameras processing is applied these levels are redistributed evenly across the image, hence if a photograph is underexposed to maintain the highlight detail the resulting raw conversion will have to open up the shadows and spread the darkest 64 levels over a wider tonal range which runs the risk of exaggerated noise and posterization. He suggests that the best exposure to achieve is one where the highlights are as close as possible to blowing out without actually doing so.

For the exercise I chose an close up image of a lego figure that had a full range of evenly distributed tones  in the histogram:

No adjustments




Linear image - curve adjusted



For this image I opened the photograph in Photoshop, converted to 16bit, made a curves adjustment with a steep but smooth downward curve which resulted in an under exposed image which simulates sensor linear capture.

'Restored' image - curve adjusted



For this image, I opened the saved version of the simulated linear capture image again converted to 16bit and made a curve adjustment opposite to that applied in the previous image, that is pushed up to increase brightness in a smooth curve.

I compared this image with the original until I achieved an equivalent result with a similar histogram.

No adjustment detail


Restored curve detail


Finally I examined the original and restored images at high magnification on screen. I found that there was evidence of increased noise and posterization in the shadow areas of the restored image. (The detail shots above show this a little although the effect is not pronounced.) I concluded that by performing these extreme adjustments on this image I was simulating trying to increase exposure on an underexposed image. I have always held the view, picked up from where I do not know, that it is important in digital photography to preserve highlight detail above all else as that cannot be recovered in post processing. I always believed that an underexposed image was preferable to an overexposed picture as underexposure is easier to compensate for in software. I guess this remains true, however, I am surprised at how few tones in an image are allocated to the dark and midtones. Correct exposure it seems is more of a minefield than I first thought the key to which I believe is understanding the image you want to create at the time of capture, understanding which tonal values are most important to the pictures success and using knowledge and experience to achieve this. In truth I rarely worry about exposure, my camera usually does a pretty good job and I always shoot raw so can alter the exposure in post processing if need be. This exercise is beginning to make me understand how little I actually consider exposure at the time of pressing the shutter and that I need to learn more about how my camera behaves if I want to produce optimum results.

At the end of this exercise I feel I understand more of how a digital camera's sensor captures an image. The true importance of this however is something I am guessing will become more significant as I explore the next few exercises which are concerned with highlight clipping, noise and dynamic range.

1 p.629 The Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 3 Book: The Complete Guide for Photographers by Martin Evening (2010 Adobe Press)